Order meze if you are two or more: a long run of small dishes is the best single introduction to Cypriot cooking. Beyond that, look for halloumi, kleftiko (slow-baked lamb), souvla (charcoal-grilled meat), afelia (pork in red wine and coriander) and village specialities, and finish with a coffee and a spoon sweet.
Best for
Travellers who want to eat well and not just default to the tourist menu.
How much time
A proper meze is a long meal: plan two hours and nothing strenuous afterwards.
Cypriot food overlaps with Greek and Turkish cooking and with the wider eastern Mediterranean, but it has its own character: halloumi, slow-cooked meats, abundant vegetables and herbs, and a habit of sharing. The best advice is to eat where locals eat, and to order by dish, not by menu description.
How meze works
A meze is a set menu of many small dishes brought in waves. A good taverna offers meat, fish or vegetarian versions. Expect dips, salad, halloumi, grilled meats, village sausages, stews and finally sweets and fruit. Pace yourself: the first dishes are not the main event. Ask what the meze includes and how many people it serves.
What to order
Halloumi
Cheese
Cyprus's famous cheese, grilled or fried, has protected designation of origin status. Try it fresh and also aged. Grilled halloumi is a classic starter.
Worth it?Worth ordering more than once and comparing, because fresh and aged halloumi taste different.
If a full meze is too much, order a smaller spread yourself: a couple of dips with bread, grilled halloumi, a salad, one grilled meat dish to share and one slow-cooked dish (kleftiko or a stew). Add a vegetable side and stop there. You can always order more; sending food back is awkward.
Menu words worth knowing
Word
Meaning
Meze
A sequence of small shared dishes
Haloumi / halloumi
The grilling cheese
Tahini and tzatziki
Common dips
Souvlaki
Grilled meat skewers or a wrap
Souvla
Large spit-roasted pieces of meat
Kleftiko
Slow-baked lamb
Glyko
A spoon sweet, preserved fruit
Sweets, coffee and drinks
Spoon sweets: fruit preserved in syrup, served with coffee or water.
Cypriot coffee: strong, served in a small cup with the grounds at the bottom. Say how sweet you want it when you order.
Commandaria: a sweet dessert wine from villages on the southern Troodos slopes. See Cyprus wine.
Zivania: a strong grape spirit, often drunk after meals.
Local beer and wine: try the local wine with meze rather than defaulting to imports.
Where to eat
Look for tavernas with local customers, short menus and meze on offer.
Mountain villages and inland towns are usually better value than resort strips.
Harbour-front restaurants are good for fish but variable: ask to see what is fresh.
Be wary of places with huge picture menus aimed at tourists.